Today I'm delighted to share with you SUQQU UK exclusive Xmas collection palette EX-35 Yuki tsubaki, designed by SUQQU Senior Make Up Artist Jorge Balzaretti. The collection celebrates SUQQU's 10th UK anniversary and includes two limited edition eyeshadow palettes, two eyeliner liquid pen duos (black/brown and black/burgundy) and three Creamy Glow Moist lipsticks (true red, cool pinkish red and universal nude). The palette is made in Japan and retails £45.00 for 4.6g/0.16oz. Launching 6th of October 2016 - mark your calendars!

About the Artist

I had the great opportunity to chat a bit with Jorge, he kindly answered all my questions despite his hectic schedule. He's very smart, sweet and funny in his messages. When I asked what he loves the most about working with SUQQU, he gave the answer SUQQU runs in his blood - despite thinking it would sound corny. Before working for SUQQU, Jorge was already in love with Japan, so translating his inspiration for something real and material in the essence of Japan is a dream job to him. The brand philosophy is so on par with his own vision: taking care of skin prior of doing anything, SUQQU's great quality in cosmetics and being chic, elegant, sexy and niche. If you take a look at Jorge's Instagram, you can see this all these elements translated into pictures with immense talent.

Palette inspiration

Yuki tsubaki translates as Winter Camellia, a flower that blooms even in harsh winter weather. Jorge let me know they were expecting these palettes to be released in Summer 2017, but thanks to the team work of UK and Japan they managed to make it happen for Xmas 2016 - amazing taking into consideration that product development takes at least 24 months for the product to be out on the market. Originally inspired by Japanese summer flowers, Jorge and his colleagues worked very hard to find flowers matching to the initial inspiration. In Japan, camellias often bloom in early Winter and Jorge loved the idea – as it's different and out of ordinary.

Personally to me, I think Yuki tsubaki is more than fitting for the palette and it feels nostalgic to me. When I lived in Tokyo, there used to be deep pink camellias right beside my front door and on the route I cycled to my University. Camellias remind me of the crisp Winter weather, cycling and fulfilling dreams as it was my long-time dream to move to Japan. I think SUQQU team found a beautiful poetic way to capture this palette, combining both strength and beauty.

Yuki Tsubaki EX-35 colors

Although SUQQU is well known for it's complex shimmers, but Jorge's main priorities for the two Xmas LE palettes were mattes. This year's palettes have been shimmer and shine heavy, like EX-29 Koukiori I reviewed here, and according to Jorge there's more to come. UK consumers tend to go more for mattes than shimmers, and working at the stores for events gave Jorge the chance to listen real customers and their needs and wishes. 3/4 of Yuki Tsubaki shadows are matte: only the upper left pale pink champagne shade has visible shimmers. The pale champagne pink isn't the most complex shimmer shade from SUQQU, but makes a nice color topper.

Formula

I had some trouble with the dark brown matte shade of EX-32 Rengazome (reviewed here), but EX-32 Yuki Tsubaki performs excellent. The texture is a bit hard, but they apply without being patchy or skipping on the eyelid. When it comes to the application of this palette, I tried placing the pink all over the mobile lid, blending with the brown to create a dark crease. I wasn't really feeling that look and ended up removing my eye make up. I found applying soft layers of eyeshadow and building the look much more suitable for this formula than heavy packing and vigorous blending. The pigmentation is sheer-medium, but the color choices pack a punch with a beautiful contrasting.

Swatches

- pale pink-white with a cool undertone
- satin/matte pink red with a strawberry hue
- pale pinky champagne shimmer
- rich neutral dark chocolate brown

The 2nd swatch picture was taken in more prominent sunlight. The colors layer incredibly beautifully, I'm so smitten with all the combinations:
- Pink + red combines as a pale baby pink
- Red + brown creates a rich reddish warm brown
- Red shade layered with shimmer emphasises its coolness and makes the color "pop"
- Finally layering the brown with red and shimmer shade creates a gorgeous purple - almost eggplant taupe brown.

1st look using SUQQU EX-35 Yuki tsubaki

In this very pink look I'm wearing Suqqu Extra Rich Cream Foundation in 102 (review), THREE lip gloss 15 Dreamers awaken and Addiction liquid blush in Sensually. Brows Viseart Sructure palette mixing some of the more dark and ashy shades. I love wearing pink eye make up when it's this sophisticated, and the pink shade in EX-35 Yuki tsubaki doesn't make my eyes look eyes blood shot.

2nd look using SUQQU EX-35 Yuki tsubaki

2nd look is a pale pink as a base, deep brown layered in the crease with the pink shade - see below how it transforms almost into an eggplant shade. I have the shimmer and pink shade lightly layered on the mobile lid, no eyeliner. My lipstick is Rouge Bunny Rouge Word of Mouth, blush THREE 11 Dream of a Day, SUQQU Treatment Primer as a base topped with Addiction tinted moisturizer and Armani Fluid Sheer Highlight no.1. Closeup below.

Overall

I'm very much in love with this quad, I even dare to say it's one of my favorites. I love it how the colors can be transformed with layering techniques, but there's enough contrast and drama to keep the colors interesting as they are in the pan. Although I mentioned the shimmer lacks certain complexity and the base pink-white shade could be a duped, the palette is beautiful for both subtle and statement looks. Jorge's hard work, talent and passion for make up has transformed into a beautiful quad, and I'm so excited because he has confirmed he's working on future collections for SUQQU. I can't wait to see what Jorge Balzaretti and SUQQU brings us next!

The palette launches on the 6th of October and SUQQU UK is taking reservations via email (suqquuk@eqpuk.com) on the 29th of September. 

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This post contains products that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

Obligatory disclaimer: to only try at your own risk. Please don't burn yourself or your house. This is not for someone who's not willing to destroy the packaging and take a risk to damage the eyeshadows. Don't breathe the plastic fumes, use a well ventilated space.

My Rouge Bunny Rouge single eyeshadow collection has gotten bigger and bigger during the past year, thanks to many promotions and sales the site has run. I noticed I didn't give all the love I could to my single compact eyeshadows as I did to the refills in my Z-palette, so I researched about depotting eyeshadows in a safe way. The shadows are not cheap and some of them are hard to get, US exclusive, out of stock and whatnot. In the end, I decided to take the risk of damaging my pretties and got to work.

Equipment

You'll need: nail or a small sharp object, like a screwdriver. A knife, any knife will do. Pliers (optional), matches and a candle. Some prefer depotting using a flat iron, but since I was afraid of damaging my flat iron and burning myself, so I chose a candle instead (candles don't burn.. right?). And finally, you need single eyeshadows.

Removing the sticker

The pan is glued into the compact with a sticker in the bottom. RBR stickers I could removing by scratching the corner with my nail - some came out very nice and easy, but I ripped a couple of them a little bit. You could use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to help loosening up the glue, but I didn't care as long as most of the stickers were re-usable.

Melting the plastic

I lit a small candle and held the shadow with pliers, later learning I could just hold the compact safely from the mirror. After removing the sticker I hold the bottom of the compact on the top of the flame, mainly the centre part. Wait about ~30 seconds, the plastic blackens first and then starts to bubble. Luckily the glue bottom of RBR shadow pans isn't very strong, by heating up the compact you can pop them out.

Remove the pan

Take your nail and poke the bottom carefully, holding the compact very near a table/plate. If the pan doesn't move, heat for another 20-30 seconds and repeat. The glue should loosen up and the pan pop out without any strength or effort. With some other brands, you might need to use the knife to pry the pan loose. Safely put the depotted pan on another plate, don't touch the metal as it's very hot. The bottoms of RBR pans are magnetic, so you can now pop them into a Z-palette. You're done!

Possible problems

The only mistake I made was with my Rufous-Tailed Weaver shadow. In this case the glue was strong and I tried to pry the corner with a knife, somehow bending the pan and pressed the shadow until it broke a bit. I managed to salvage most of it and pressing it back to the pan. My perfectionist's heart cries crocodile tears, but oh well. 

Another mistake I made was size of the pans. The older(?) ones are 2.4 grams instead of 2g. A small Z-palette holds 9 two gram pans perfectly, but I had a mixture of large and small sizes.

A couple of my pans I ordered from the US website were plastic or some sort of light metal and wouldn't magnetise. Luckily, Z-palettes come with metal disks with stickers, you can adhere them to the pans. The disks are the exact size for smaller RBR shadows!

The aftermath

Would I do this again if I purchase more single shadows? Absolutely. I'm not quite ready yet to depot all of my shadows, but I'm really happy with my RBR singles collection and customisable palettes. I ordered a Large Z-palette to hold my RBR shadows and having a ton of fun planing new eye looks and shadow combos. If you want 20% off your Rouge Bunny Rouge purchase use the code RBR-LAURALOUKOLA20 (non-affiliated) for your shopping basket. My shopping recommendations you can read here.

Are you into depotting eyeshadows? 

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In this next instalment of Three from THREE I have their popular Shimmering Lip Jams to show you. Actually, I'm cheating a little and swatching you all the four shades I have. While the rest of the Western world has gone wild about matte liquid lipsticks, I've fallen in love with lip gloss. It's easy, effortless and doesn't emphasise my dry lips as well matte formulations do. THREE is quite famous of their Shimmering Lip Jams, they're among their best sellers and have won awards in various Japanese beauty magazines. Available in 20 colors, one retailing ¥3,000 + tax.

Formula

The formula is a light weight gloss with no stickiness whatsoever, simply lovely on the lips. The gloss won't completely repel your hair from sticking to your lips on a windy day, but if you've tried RMK lip glosses, they're definitely stickier. The finish isn't a gloopy glassy gloss, but more natural healthy, dewy sheen on the lips. When I think of a lip gloss, I think of something sparkly and very sheer, but unlike the name suggests, there's no visible shimmer or glitter particles in the shades that I have. I'd say a generous layer of Shimmering Lip Jam will give a beautiful tint to the lips and you can tell the difference between shades in the range.

The glosses wear nicely on the lips for a couple of hours if you don't eat or drink, but needs to be reapplied during the day - less stick unfortunately often means less lasting power. I don't notice any scent/taste with this glosses, which I like. Like most THREE products, the lip glosses have plenty of organic botanical oils (tea seed, argan, jojoba, evening primrose, rosehip oil, shea butter and beeswax). The feel is lightly moisturising, but not oily, slippery or overly balmy.

Packaging

The glosses come in a square shaped transparent 'tube' with THREE printed on the side. I quite like this shape as it won't roll off the table and the color is easily visible. The applicator is a quite standard doe foot applicator: round edges, long and straight, a bit thickened near the wand. The gloss glides on your lips so easily you could apply with your eyes closed. The packaging isn't re-inventing the wheel, but works. The cap is THREE's signature matte grey.

Swatches

Excuse me for my chapped lips! I applied all glosses two layers for more intense color. The intensity in each one is about the same. I wasn't very precise with my application, but at least you get an idea of the 'jam' texture. You can definitely smoothen out the color for more even finish.

08 Red Shoe Twist

Gorgeous medium, true red shade. One of the best sellers ranked by iVoce magazine, if I recall right. If you love red lipstick but don't want to make a bold statement every time you wear one, this lip gloss is for you. Also gorgeous for topping a lip pencil or a matte lipstick.

11 Cranberry Crunch

My favourite shade. Judging by the tube I expected 11 Cranberry Crunch to be very intense, but after seeing swatches in a Japanese blog I knew I'd have to try it. A juicy, cranberry wine color.

15 Dreamers Awaken

Definitely my most worn shade. Natural cooler pink shade that looks great with any outfit or make up look. In this picture it doesn't look as pigmented as the others, but is a pretty, fresh cool toned pink in real life.

16 Color of Soul

Pretty coral orange with a slightly cool/neutral undertone. The shade isn't too warm to make my teeth look yellow, and compliments very nicely a variety of make up looks without being too in your face.

Overall

After getting just 1 THREE Shimmering Lip Jam I had to ask my friend to purchase me three more, as I loved the formula and color range so much. I can easily justify owning them all, as there's a clear distinguish between the shades. I must admit I haven't tried many high end lip glosses, but I'm very drawn to THREE. I've worn these a lot especially when my lips were dry and chapped. I wish the formula would apply perfectly even with one swipe, but it doesn't take much effort to rub your lips together to get an even finish. In real life it hasn't bothered me, but I notice it looking at the photos.

Have you tried any lip products from THREE?

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Swatching my Addiction by Ayako stash continues! Today I have quite a fun and unique blush product to show you: Addiction Cheek Polishes. They've been out for a while, and at the time I'm typing this there are six shades available on the web shop, but there are descriptions for a total of 10 shades. I'm a little unsure if they've discontinued 4 shades and just forgot to remove their descriptions. Addiction Cheek Polishes retail ¥3,024 (tax included) for 12ml.

Packaging

Addiction is famous for their nail polishes, and these little bottles look quite similar. They're both square and about the same size, even the Cheek Polish applicator resembles a nail polish brush, as it's has long and stumpy hairs like nail polish brushes are. The bottle is sturdy frosted glass with the Addiction logo. 

Formula

The Cheek Polishes are essentially a matte liquid blush - not to be confused with a liquid lipstick or a multistick formulas, as these have a very sheer, buildable consistency. They're smooth and emollient feeling on the skin, and I don't find them drying on my dry skin. The formula has some lavender oil, so if you're sensitive to essential oils better patch test the product first. I like how sheer these blushes are in consistency: they have a nice watercolor effect, a transparent wash of color, which looks very natural and effortless at the same time. I usually reach for these when I want to have color on my face but not look like I'm wearing anything. The lasting power isn't out of this world, and the blush tends to fade naturally during the day after ~6 hours.

Application

Although the packaging resembles a nail polish, I don't "paint" on my cheeks with the brush, but dab about 3-4 drops of the product on my cheek and blending with a finger or a duo fibre brush. For liquid highlighter, like the Benefit High Beam, I like to blend with my fingers, but the blush is more liquid in consistency and spreads nice and even with a brush. My Sensually blush was a gift with purchase and I haven't needed to purchase a full size as the product is very long lasting - you only need those 3-4 drops for a sheer wash of color.

Swatches

Sensually

Sensually is "my cheeks but better" type of muted, rosy pink shade. In the close up of the swatch photo I can detect some very fine micro shimmer, but I've never noticed it on the skin. It looks like a natural satin-matte finish instead of the 'flat' matte kind once applied. I'm loving this shade a lot.

Revenge

A gorgeous, true warm red shade. I love the shade, but if I'm not careful in the application and hiding my natural redness, Revenge might get me a 'sunburnt' look on the cheeks. I find the best application to be on the cheekbones instead of apples of the cheeks. The formula is beautiful and I bet Revenge would look gorgeous especially if you have a bit darker skin than I do or less natural redness.

Overall

Addiction Cheek Polishes are a wonderful addition to my blush wardrobe as a light, effortless alternative to cream blushes. The bottle lasts literally forever and hasn't gone bad quickly (my Revenge is +2 years old). I wish the lasting power was better as I tend to wear my make up full 12 hours/day, but I'm definitely looking into more shades.

Are you intrigued to try the Addiction Cheek Polishes? Have you tried any other similar liquid blushes?

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Being a beauty nerd, my friends tend to ask me for shopping recommendations when planning their Japan trips. I've repeated myself so many times I thought I'd share the same information with you and depending on your interest, I can make this subject a mini series, such as:

Part one: Shopping cosmetics in Japan (you're here)
Part two: Top beauty items to purchase in Japan
Part three: Brush shopping

LOST IN TRANSLATION

Looking into Japanese cosmetics can be overwhelming for the first timers, even if you can read the language, there is a lot of selection. Not only there are a lot of inexpensive drug store brands, but also very good quality high end ones - and Japan/Asia exclusives or re-formulations from Lancome, Dior, L'oreal etc. Since I've mostly done my shopping in Japan in person, most of this information is useful if you can be there youself or use a personal shopper. Here are some tips what to look for when you're starting to venture into Japanese beauty for the first time. Photos by my lovely friend Liisa, thank you!

Check out recommendations

Japan has a vast make up and skincare database site called Cosme, which has constantly updating rankings what are the best or most wanted items in Japanese beauty. It also has lots of user reviews - if you can't read or use Google translate you can still look at the star rankings to determine if the product is decent. Like at the Makeupalley, there are different categories in skincare and make up. Cosme's bi-annual awards are also very famous and the most popular products will promote themselves in stores with ranking stickers, look for those! There's also a couple of physical Cosme stores where you can buy best ranked cosmetics. Other rankings include magazines, such as iVoce, Biteki and Maquia, which you can check out for other popular or novelty items.

SHOPS TO CHECK OUT

If loud and cramped drug stores intimidate you, one way to check out both drugstore, natural and midrange cosmetics is to check out Tokyu Hands or LoFt. They're both home goods department stores/store chains that have nice cosmetics selection, the stores are less cramped with helpful and knowledgeable staff. The testers are usually in a good shape. Great for unique finds and exploring beauty gadgets as well. The prices might have a little mark up, but not necessarily a lot. In some Loft stores you can also find fude (=brushes), such as Koyudo.

If you're more price savvy and don't care about noisy, cramped environment drug stores or Don Quijote (pronounced 'Donki' or 'Donki Hoote' in Japanese) are a your choice. Donki is especially great for buying fake eyelashes and nail stickers. Drugstores, such as Matsumoto Kiyoshi, can be found everywhere.

For your high end make up I love Isetan Mirror. It's a beauty store that stocks both selected Western and Japanese high end brands (Addiction, Shu Uemura, RMK, THREE etc). Although I like department stores, they can also be cramped and it's harder to compare products or prices between counters. I often like to browse a bit of everything and cherry pick my products. In Isetan Mirror you can shop freely, the staff is very nice and give you recommendations from different brands.

Fukubukuro, presents and specials

Japan loves exclusives and limited editions. Just like in Western make up, high end brands come out with seasonal collections which are available as long as there are stock or a new collection launches. Sometimes special items, gifts with purchase or sets are available only at a certain department store, city or at the flagship shop, for example. My best advice is: if you find something you like a lot, buy it right away. At a different counter your favorite popular item can be sold out.

Fukubukuro means a "lucky bag" when brands sell packages of special or past season items with a heavily discounted price. The trick is, you don't know what the bag keeps inside. Some brands let you know partially what you're getting, for example when I was shopping for Shu Uemura with my Mom, you were able to choose the cleansing oil according to your skin type, but the shades of color make up inside the bag were a mystery. Fukubukuros are sold every New Year from 1st to 3rd January (some drug store brands might be sold in advance). Most popular items tend to sell out on Jan 1st, be prepared for crowds and queueing.

Samples

Gifts with purchase aren't usually over the top, but sometimes when you spend a certain amount you may get a product mini or a cosmetic pouch free of charge. You can request a sample of a foundation, but instead of getting a mini pot with your matching shade you might be handed a sachet and a pamphlet. Unfortunately the sachets often come only in one shade, which is the most popular or a medium one. If you want to match and wear your shade for the whole day it's a good idea to head to the counter in the morning without make up.

Shopping etiquette in Dept. stores

When you approach a busy counter, you might be handed a waiting number. Play with samples and wait until your number is called (or keep the number visible). Sales associates might not speak English, so please be positive and patient if you don't speak Japanese. In bigger dept. stores you might be able to ask for English or Chinese assistance. The SAs are often very willing to apply the products on you, which is great if you want to test out a blush, a lipstick or match a foundation before purchasing. Sit on a chair at the testing area and place your bag and coat into a basket provided. Test the items you like, and don't be afraid to ask for a different color or product.

Some department stores give 5~10% discount coupon to tourists, so ask about it before paying. Once you're ready to purchase they often hand you a little tray for credit card or cash. Often the cosmetic counters don't have their own register, you need to wait for a moment as the SA goes to other side of the hall. When you're handed your make up products they check and show you there's no mistaken colors or damaged items. This is to avoid complaints. If you don't want your products be opened, please inform them. 

Notice the tax might be added to the price at the time of payment, often the prices listed on the counter/packaging/shelf are tax free. If you purchase tax free, you need to take the purchased items, passport and receipts to a different counter (often in downstairs). This is not the case in all shops, but often in department stores. They will check your purchase and return the tax to you as cash.

Questions?

I hope you found this post was helpful! I love talking about Japan, and there will be many more posts to come. If you're looking for reviews of a particular item, please check my tag cloud for the brand/product type or click Japanese make up. If you have any questions about shopping in Japan or requests regarding these series or a particular product(s), please leave me a comment! I hope you're having a wonderful day and talk to you soon. x

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Let me tell you, I'm all about make up rituals and high maintenance with my myriad of products, but there are days in one's life when you're extra busy or just can't be bothered with elaborate make up looks. When it comes to quick, busy-day make up application I call one shadow wonders those eyeshadows that make an amazing eye look on their own. I'm cheating a tiny bit as my hooded eyes need a matte contour shade 90% of the time, but it's all optional.

I've not only curated some of my top 3 shades to wear on their own (read: taupes), but also a fantastic performers that won't crease, have fallout or apply patchy. Just a swipe on the lid, add some mascara, blusher and a lip balm - you're ready to take the world .. or just hurry out of the door. Unlike one hit wonders in music, these are eyeshadows I love to reach for time and time again and they certainly never go out of style. If you want to invest on one eyeshadow, consider one of these.

Tom Ford Platinum

Most shimmery shadow of the bunch. It has a creamy, almost bouncy gélee texture. I like to use a flat goat hair brush for the application, like Hakuhodo B J004G, and gently swipe on the lid. The brush won't absorb the product, which is great. I'd call Platinium a neutral taupe grey with brown undertones and visible silver flecks. If you prefer a warmer shade, you could try TF's Spice. 

Rouge Bunny Rouge Long-lasting Duo Cream shadow

Rouge Bunny Rouge came out with a gorgeous cream eyeshadow duo in the shade Gossammer Wing. I truly hope they will come out with more, as I'm head over heels in love with this one. I must emphasis I'm not a big fan of creamy cream shadows in general, as creasing is my worst nightmare. I'm happy to tell you these dry a satin-matte finish and won't budge, won't crease or move around after setting! Comes with doe foot applicators, but I also like to blending these with my finger.

The lighter shade is a pinky vanilla cream shade: perfect for inner corner or eyeball highlight. The darker shade is a taupe with purple undertones without being overly cool. Looks matte but has a golden sheen to it. Almost like there was golden shimmer trapped underneath the dried cream, giving it a subtle and pretty sheen.

Burberry no. 12 Pale Barley

Loved by bloggers around the globe, Burberry's Pale Barley has a cult status for a reason. This shadow is soft, pigmented and blends like a dream. Can be applied wet for more intensity. To me, Pale Barley is a soft grey-taupe with a hint of creamy beige. Like a chic trench coat or a milky cafe au lait in a eyeshadow. There's silver microshimmer to give the shadow a sheen, but is far from being sparkly.

Do you have a favourite go-to single eyeshadow? Please share!

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Today I have another item to show you from SUQQU UK's 10th Anniversary Holiday Collection, the beautiful purple eye quad EX-36 Fuyusumire. The collection is designed by the talented make up artist, Jorge Balzaretti. I know the demand was higher than expected for these items, especially eyeshadows, and there were issues with Selfridges website on the launch date and unfortunately not everyone got a hold of them. I'd like to share my own personal ordering experience and of course - swatches and review of the items. Click here to see my photos and review of EX-35 Yukitsubaki, the lipsticks review will also be up soon!

Ordering process

Back in August when the first press sneak peeks of the collection were released, I placed an email reservation on EX-36 Fuyusumire. I exchanged a couple of emails with SUQQU staff, and ended up reserving the two lipsticks as well. I don't have many lipsticks of this formula and they were just too pretty to miss. Later, due to the high demand, SUQQU announced on Instagram and via an email newsletter that they will have an online reservation for both counters and International mail order. I was unsure if my older reservation was still valid, so on the reservation day I kept refreshing SUQQU UK's website. Unfortunately there was a humane error and the form came online an hour earlier than announced (London time vs GTM), but after 45 minutes the eyeshadows came back online. By my mistake, I took the risk of placing duplicate order despite knowing my reservation could get cancelled, and waited anxiously for reply.

I got my reservation confirmation email within the promised 3 working days, maybe two days before the official launch. The SUQQU staff checked my contact details and told me the launch date might be very hectic, so she called me personally the next day and took my credit card info because I didn't feel safe sharing it online. She even phoned me again to verify my order was a success, card info is now deleted and estimated delivery time. She was very kind, professional and I was so appreciative of the International phone call. I had not mentioned that I was a blogger, I think SUQQU just honoured my early reservation.

Fuyusumire EX-36

Originally the palette was supposed to be a Summer release, but I feel the coolness of the colors and shimmer work well all year around. Since this palette was UK only release, there's no kanji name, but according to SUQQU the translation is a winter violet, which is a small petaled flower growing across hills and and fields. Just like EX-35 Yukitsubaki this palette features 3 mattes and one shimmer shade (upper left corner).

Formula

I think Fuyusumire nails the matte formulation. I was fearing the lilac and purple brown would have the same stiffness I experienced with the darkest matte of EX-32 Rengazome, but Fuyusumire applies effortlessly without skipping on the lid. This is how all high end mattes should perform! The eyeshadows have the perfect balance of softness and firmness, I'd call the feel 'silky' instead of 'buttery'. You get just the right amount of shadow when dipping your brush into the pan.

The pigmentation is like with all SUQQU palettes: sheer-medium, easily to build and layer. The pale mint green is quite pale and sheer though, and doesn't really show up on my lids. I'd assume it would look amazing on tan/medium to dark skin tones, but on my lids you can't see the color. There's no powder kickback, but the pinky glitter shade has some loose sparkle fallout if you don't tap your brush before applying on the lid. In general, any fallout is a no-no to me, but if it can be avoided by simple tapping and I won't have glitter on my face after 8h wear it's good in my book. SUQQU wears nicely ~8h without creasing.

Swatches

- Palest milky mint green, very light and sheer
- Perfect pale lilac
- Dark purple with hints of dark chocolate and dusty mauve
- Icy pink with silver shimmer

Color layering

- Pale mint and purple makes the minty green more opaque
- Dark purple "brown" layered with pale purple turns the shade into deeper shade of purple
- "Brown" and shimmery pink bring out mauves from the darker shade, accompanied by sweet silver shimmers.

Yukitsubaki and Fuyusumire comparison

I was requested on IG to compare the two pinks in this collection and figured out I'd show the difference with the "browns" as well. Yukitsubaki's brown is fairly neutral chocolate brown but looks much warmer and red in comparison. Fuyusumire is actually a dark eggplant purple, with again some pinky mauve in the undertones (at least to my eyes).

Yukitsubaki has a golden pink with a peach sheen. Where as Yukitsubaki is a warmer pink with gold shimmer, Fuyusumire is much cooler, icier pink with silver glitters.

Face of the day

Somewhat traditional look for hooded eyes with dark matte in the crease, lilac all over the lid and pink shimmer on the eyeball as well as in the inner corner. I used the mint green as a base all over the lid, but it's not really visible. Yes, I feel very safe using the colors this way, but the perfectly picked purples make it very fresh, cute and feminine even against my skin tone. I can't wait to try darker, more sultry smokey eyes with this palette! The lipstick is EX-03 Awamomoka from the same collection, worn quite sheer.

Overall impressions

After ordering I sat and wondered if the palette is worth all the hassle and will I be using it as much as I would like. As much as I love SUQQU products there are a couple of palettes I don't reach that often (both have 1 cream shadow). I love the look of purple shadows, but I feel warmer shades compliment my eyes better. After actively playing with the palette I must say I love it. Period. Totally worth of every penny and minute of my time.

I'm smitten with both purple shades and using the shimmer as an accent. I wish the mint green would show up better on my lids, but it does make a perfect cool base for the look. EX-36 Fuyusumire is celebrating the mattes and how they meld together, not as much about complex shimmers or layering. The three mattes make EX-36 Fuyusumire very modern, chic and sophisticated and the pinky glitter shade brings some coy and fun to the palette.

How do you like this palette? Were you able to grab anything from the collection?

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After chatting about chemical exfoliants I've been preparing a post with all the current exfoliants I've tried, but meanwhile I'm reviewing the NIOD NAAP or Non-Acid Acid Precursor 15% in a dedicated post. I've never tried any alternative products for acid exfoliants before and I was curious if NAAP would help with my skin concerns in a gentle way without redness or excessive peeling. Thank you Laura at NIOD for sending me this product to try!

Alternative to acid exfoliating?

NIOD NAAP is called a non-acidic alternative to epidermal resurfacing - like AHA, BHA or retinoids. If you're still unfamiliar with AHAs or BHAs I highly recommend you checking out my earlier 101 post! Instead of these acids, NAAP uses fermentation bio-derivatives and amino isolates that should have the benefits of acids without the inflammation, irritation or redness some acids may cause to sensitive skins. This redness does pass, but especially if you're a newbie or very sensitive to acids, you should start with a low dosage and apply only ~every other day. Personally I don't remember having very significant redness issues while using acids, but I have experienced strong tingling from glycolic acid (an AHA) and sometimes my skin does flare up just from my cleansing/skincare routine - which I'd like to avoid. NIOD NAAP retails on their website 42€ for 30ml and has a worldwide delivery.

Packaging and product

NAAP is a semi-opaque white liquid packed in a brown glass bottle with a pipette. The pipette gets all soaked in the product but distributes only little product, so I feel like applying some on my hand by touching the pipette - not good for hygiene. But double dipping the pipette back to the bottle is a nuisance to me. Can I get this in a pump? 

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Bisabolol, Glycerin, Ethyl Linoleate, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Yeast Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Lecithin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Isohexadecane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

According to COSDNA there is no irritants or acne causing ingredients, the ingredients are listed mostly just as emulsifiers, viscosity controllers with a couple of preservatives. Niod explain some of their technologies on their website: Basically, the 2nd ingredient is a suspension of a probiotic bacteria purified through lysis and acts as a precursor. The amino isolates and oligopeptide are their alternatives for retinoids and AHAs, paired with ingredients to support hydration and make the product more comfortable to use. 

Using NAAP

After using NAAP once or twice I noticed my skin flaking. I didn't get any nasty dry patches, but the outermost layer started peeling when applying foundation with a duo-fibre stippling brush. As my skin is overall dry, I need to refrain from using a stippling brush for my foundation for now and stick with softer natural hair bristles. I've had the same experience with a BHA, Benzyl Peroxide and Retinol products, but I expected the NAAP to be more gentle. The instructions do advice you to use the product every other night to build up tolerance, but since there was no stinging, redness or other irritation, I proceeded with using it every evening (vs BHA two times a day). I've used NAAP in my evening routine like this:

1. Double cleansing
2. Vitamin C serum (currently Niod ELAN) + 15 min wait time
3. NAAP + 15 min wait time
4. Retinol serums
5. Hydrating toners and the rest of the routine

My skin concerns and results

I didn't use any chemical exfoliants while I was on Accutane, and after the medication ended I was left with annoying bumps and texture issues on my forehead. I'm happy my break-outs are drastically reduced, but looking at the mirror with uneven skin still bothers me a ton. There's also a couple of stubborn blackheads on the side of my nose that won't go away. 

After ~a week of using the NIOD NAAP the texture and my forehead 'bumps' were clearly diminished, which I almost find hard to believe. I had already tried one of my topical acne medications with benzyl peroxide and prescription retin-A, retinol serums, etc., but none seemed to have an effect on the bumpy texture. There hasn't been difference to the stubborn comedones on the side of my nose, I might have to go see a professional about those or just wait a little longer. But overall my skin looks so clear and smooth after using NIOD NAAP. No signs of bumpiness on my forehead and make up applies beautifully. I wish I had taken a before and after pictures, but honestly I was sceptic and didn't expect results so quickly.

The flaking has decreased over time I've used the product, but hasn't completely disappeared. I'd like to add the season is changing to colder and I do also use a gentle retinol serum in the evenings, but I don't think it has lead to over exfoliating. The peeling won't occur if I skip a night using NAAP, but I love the results it gives me. If I need my make up to apply extra beautifully I gently remove the dead skin cells by using my Cure Natural Aqua Gel (reviewed here).

Overall

I'm pretty impressed with the results I've got with NIOD NAAP. I honestly expected the product to be on the more milder side and show only subtle changes over time. For me, the results were quick. If you're not used to medium-strong acids (like BHA 2% or AHA 10%) I recommend you start using every other night or so. NAAP would be a dream product if there was zero flaking, but I doubt the results would be as effective. I'll try to update this post after I'm nearly finished my bottle and tell if did the flaking totally diminish. I'm also thinking of incorporating a bit of BHA into my routine and see if it has any effect on the stubborn comedones as NAAP isn't designed to control acne issues. Considering everything, I love how smooth and radiant my skin has looked lately and I will purchasing a second bottle.

Have you tried any NIOD products? What's your current exfoliant?

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This post contains product(s) that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

Even if you're not a beauty enthusiast, most likely you have at least two skincare items in your cabinet: a cleanser and a daily moisturiser. Personally, I could name several enjoyable and effective cleansers worth of re-purchasing, but most day creams are nothing to write home about. I use one up and move forward. I went as far as thinking that a day cream or moisturiser doesn't even matter that much - as long as you're using a great essence and a serum or treatment, you're good to go. Just slap whatever on the top to seal them in. Then, I purchased January Labs lotion from Cult Beauty and fell in love, and later I got a generous package from January with her Revitalizing Day Cream. Time for testing!

January labs

I was going to publish this review after I've chatted more with the founder of January Labs about her brand, but I could no longer contain my excitement about this product. January Labs is based in California and founded by January Olds, a licensed aesthetician and who has worked nearly 20 years in the beauty industry and studied ingredient technology. What I've chatted with her she seems very genuine, lovely person and very passionate about skincare. She thinks of her brand as a perfect combination of science and nature, which I can see in her product formulations: they're packed with the cleaned ingredients available, but expect to deliver results, skipping any harmful or unnecessary additives. Sounds like a winner combination to me. The January Labs Revitalizing Day Cream is 50ml and retails for $68.00 on their website and £51.00 (~56.90€) on Cult Beauty.

Packaging

The January Labs Revitalizing Day Cream is a very promising day cream - or lotion, if you will. Firstly, it's packed in a hygienic pump - no fingers or air gets in touch with the ingredients inside. I hate to pay a fortune for a luxurious cream in a jar and have the danger of oxidation every time I use it. January Labs' white plastic packaging also protects the inside from sunlight. It would be useful if you could somehow tell how much cream is left inside the packaging, but you can estimate by feeling its weight. The packaging is sturdy, simple, with a beautiful logo and typography. I think the pattern inside box is just adorable, I wish they had included more of it in the the actual packaging.

Texture

The cream is more like a pale yellowish lotion. It spreads effortlessly and less than one pump is enough for my whole face. Don't I love pumps that distribute the perfect amount! The cream sinks in a matter of seconds, providing instant hydration and plumping effect to my skin. The feel on the skin is slightly tacky, but not overly so it would bother me. I will apply my heavy duty sunscreen afterwards anyway. There's a slight tingling sensation on my skin for a few minutes, which could be the Vitamin C in the cream according to January. 

Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Beantree Oil, Beta-Glucan, Verbena Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearyl Alcohol, C14-22 Alcohols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Extract, Pinus Pinaster Bark (Maritime Pine) Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Glycerin, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleacea Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Extract, Aristotelia Chilensisui Fruit Extract, Aronia Arbutifolia/Aronia Melanocarpa (Chokeberry) Fruit Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

The formula is rich in antioxidants and botanical ingredients from various plant and berry extracts that help to fight free radical damage. Niacimide, also known as Vitamin B, is a high up in the ingredient list and well known for its effectiveness in anti-ageing and brightening skin tone. Beta-glucan, a polysaccharide sugar from oats or yeast is a skin soothing agent and improvess the look of sensitive skin. As I suffer from redness and acne scaring (PIH), all these ingredients make me very pleased. Antioxidants and niacimide is just what I've wanted for my morning routine. According to COSDNA the other bulk of the ingredients are mainly moisturisers (such as plant oils) and and emollient ingredients. The formulation is perfume free but has a very light citrus scent to it, probably from the Citrus Aurantifolia Oil.

Results

Despite being a light lotion texture, I feel the Revitalizing Day Cream brings instant hydration and plumpness to my dry skin. I haven't had any dry patches despite the weather changing for colder and I find the name "revitalizing" feels quite accurate. I tend to use a lot of essences and hydrating toners, but it's this cream in my routine that feels the most moisturising and effective - alone or sealing in all the previous skincare steps. I love it how my skin feels bouncy, plump and fresh without one bit greasy residue after applying. 

Final verdict

January Labs Revitalizing Day Cream delivers what it promises, the formulation being a beautiful marriage between nature and science. This day cream is the product I am looking forward to use the most every morning. I'm almost out of my gifted bottle and I will definitely purchase this again and again.

Have you tried anything from January Labs?

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This post contains product(s) that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

Do you get excited or annoyed Christmas seems to start earlier and earlier each year? I do like decorated windows and illuminations during the darkest season of the year (and in Finland it's DARK), but I don't need a reminder of buying hysteria. However, as my birthday is at the end of November, I took a little pleasure to put together a wish list of beauty items that I have in my radar. I don't expect to purchase or receive anything, but I this might give you little tips how to treat yourself or beauty enthusiasts near you. All these items you can buy online with international delivery from my favorite sites. As always, the links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

Image source: manufacturers/webshops

Byredo Mojave Ghost Perfume 50ml / 95€

I adore this perfume, it's been on my wish list since I first smelled it last February. The scent reminds me of pears, which I find lovely. Unfortunately we don't have Byredo in Finland, so I've been putting off buying this and worn my less expensive Jo Malone instead. Gypsy Water is my 2nd favorite from Byredo.

Omorovicza Moor Mud Set 50ml, 30ml, 15ml / 53.9€

I've heard lots of great things about Omorovicza, a luxury skincare brand from Budapest. I adore cleansing balms and moor mud skincare. As the regular cleansing balm is the same price as the set, I find it great value to get introduced to the brand.

Diptyque Baies Candle 190g / 44€

Like many beauty enthusiasts - I enjoy scented candles, but I have yet to try Diptyque! To my knowledge Baies is one of the best sellers and the scent was very pleasant when I smelled it in store. The label is simply beautiful and looks beautiful in any home.

MV organics 70ml / 39.85€

IF you're buying a skincare gift I think cleansers are always a safe bet. I missed on Cult Beauty's 2 for price of 1 sale on this product and it's been tempting me ever since. I think a cream cleanser would suit perfectly for my at home spa nights, massaging and removing with a hot cloth. 

Shaquda UBU 820 Bright up Brush 66€

I've actually owned this brush, but it has been lost since last June when I was doing a voluntary work at an event. Could be someone snatched it, could just be the lost and found services wouldn't find a brush. Either way I'm devastated I lost this perfectly angled contour brush and I'm hoping to get a new on as soon as possible.

Surratt Relevee Lash Curlers 24.7€

Surratt's lash curlers have lately been popping on YouTube, rumoured to be even better than Shu Uemura's world famous lash curlers. As I love everything I've tried from Surratt, I can't wait to get my hands on these curlers. Surratt's new eyeshadows and blushes also made my heart skip a beat, but unfortunately I couldn't find the novelty items for sale in Europe. 

OUAI Haircare Volume Kit 300ml, 250ml, 130g / 50€

I wanted to add a hair item, but to be honest, I'm a newbie when it comes to hair products. I have a couple of favorites that have stuck with me for years, but lately I've felt more open minded about styling and taking care of my hair. Ouai has been quite hyped up lately and you get a lot of product for the price. Would try them!

Vintner's Daughter Serum 30ml / 168.5€

Last but not least THE serum people in the beauty community have been buzzing about this year. Packed with highly potent, highest quality organic ingredients, this serum is supposed to be all-arounder perfection for your skin concerns. With many positive reviews, I'm more than intrigued. It's up there in the price, but I'd love to give it a go. 

..No color make up?! Most of the Holiday collections just haven't caught my eye and I've been eyeing the potential Spring releases instead. I haven't found Surratt novelties in EU and otherwise I'd only want to try the Marc Jacobs Airblushes (I like Lush & Libido or Flesh & Fantasy) or get more SUQQU blushes, but they're either only available at Sephora or/and out of stock.

What items are you currently eyeing? 

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Today I'm chatting about one of my favourite skincare ingredients: the Vitamin C. Thanks to marketing and middle school health classes, you may be familiar with the great health benefits of ingesting Vitamin C every day, but as a topical skincare ingredient I feel it needs more careful attention. Not any OJ is going to do the job! Worth mentioning again: the lemons are just props - never slap them on your face. Never, no matter how many Pinterest DYI's tell you to.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C serums are most commonly made of the active ingredient L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA for short), which is a form of Vitamin C. It can come both in natural or synthetic form, and there are no known differences in how they affect our bodies (source). LAA is a rich antioxidant and an essential in your diet with a lot of roles in body functions, such as protecting out immune system, preventing common cold, delaying cancer development and production of collagen. Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin, which humans are unable to synthesis in our bodies, which means it should be ingested every day. Since our digestive system gets rid of the excess, an effective way to get it on your skin is using topical Vitamin C products.

Benefits of Vitamin C in skincare

LAA is a great ingredient for anti-ageing, as stimulating collagen production plays an important part in skin firmness and elasticity. One cause for wrinkles is simply a loss of collagen due to ageing, smoking or photoageing. It protects from free radical damage, and has been found effective preventing sun burn by thickening the dermis layer of the skin (but should not replace your sunscreen!). The topical application of Vitamin C has been shown to lighten hyperpigmentation and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (acne scaring). Overall it gives the skin healthier, more even look. 

Finding a product

You might find LAA listed in lotions, creams and other products, but serums tend to have the highest concentrations. Now here comes the tricky part: As an excellent antioxidant LAA is an electron donor and will oxidize in contact with oxygen, becoming ineffective. LAA is particularly unstable and vulnerable to oxidation when exposed to UV light and air. Choosing an opaque container is the safest, that's why I'm often sceptical when I see serums in clear bottles or jars. Look for tubes and airless pumps! Working LAA serums are usually water like clear liquid, and turn yellow to brownish when oxidized or 'gone bad'. When looking for an effective LAA serum you should also check the concentration and make sure it's high - at least 15%. Being an acid, you want the serum to be low pH (less than ~3.5) in order to function and penetrate effectively. I know, many points to consider, but looking into your products pays off.

NIACINAMIDE AND VITAMIN C?

Niacinamide (part of Vitamin B group) is also a very effective anti-ageing ingredient, improving skin look and feel, tone and texture. The worry is Vitamin C and niacinamide forming a 1:1 compound that turns into niacin (or nicotonic acid), and cancel each other's skin benefits. As I'm not a cosmetic chemist, I'd like to link Stephen's article where he explains in detail why these two ingredients can be combined - at least for most people. However many sources still claim these two ingredients should be used separately - one during the day and the other in the evenings for example. Personally I'm not having a panic attack about the matter, but I might discuss it in a separate post once I've gathered more reliable evidences on the subject. 

APPLYING LAA SERUM IN A ROUTINE

I've found active ingredients best applied on clean skin before any other products. I'll be chatting more about skin acid mantle in and importance of product pH in another post, but to put it shortly: when choosing a product LAA must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin (source). This means if you're using a higher pH cleanser you should allow 15-20 minutes to allow your skin to return a normal pH or use a pH adjusting toner before applying Vitamin C.

Personally, I haven't found a perfect pH adjusting toner for my routine, so I try to use as low pH cleanser as possible and go with that. After cleansing, I take the serum on clean hands and gently spread it over my dry face. I let the serum to absorb about ~15 minutes after application before moving onto the next step in my routine, which are chemical exfoliants (also pH dependant) and retinols. The LAA product I'm using is advised to be used in the evening, so here's my current routine:

1. Double cleanse w/ cleansing oil/balm and a low pH foam
(2. pH adjust the skin (wait time or toner pH <3.5))
3. LAA + 15 minutes wait time
4. Chemical exfoliant / retinol + 15 minutes wait time
5. Rest of the routine

Thoughts

I don't have much sun spots on my skin yet, but I do struggle with very visible post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or acne scaring. Sometimes the PIH on my face has bothered me even more than active break outs, as the marks are very visible on my light complexion and look apparent for months. I've found applying a Vitamin C serum in my routine to visibly brighten my complexion and slowly fading the PIH. I used to have the need to pinpoint conceal everything on my face, now plain foundation evens out most of my skin. I can highly recommend including a good Vitamin C product in your routine! 

Have you incorporated a Vitamin C product in your routine? I'd love to hear more!

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The pictures contain product(s) that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views.

I'm happy to share you all three lipsticks part of SUQQU's UK exclusive holiday collection, designed by SUQQU's senior make up artist Jorge Balzaretti. One of the lipsticks (EX-01) I got gifted as PR and the other two I purchased myself via email reservation. You can read about the ordering process in my earlier review of EX-36 Fuyusumire eyeshadow quad here. I've also posted swatches and my thoughts of the red quad EX-35 Yukitsubaki here.

Packaging

The black packaging is simple and sophisticated, an angular bullet with rounded edges. The SUQQU logo is almost invisible being only a black embossing. When talking about a luxury lipstick, I wish there was some kind of 'extra' nuance in the packaging, like a magnetic closure. I know I'm nitpicking, but when paying a pretty penny for a beauty item I pay attention to details. I very much like the gold detailing in the new SUQQU Extra Glow lipsticks. To my knowledge the Creamy Glow Moist is an older formula, maybe that's why they didn't update the packaging? 

Let's see the swatches!

EX-01 SAE BARA

Beautiful opaque red shade, like Snow White's lips or a red rose in a lipstick. On me it's a neutral red leaning to cool. Very chic alternative for the classic warm red lipstick you wear during holidays. I'd say Sae Bara looks best with a lip liner, which I didn't use in the photo above, thus there's a little bit bleeding.

EX-02 KAN BOTAN

Kan botan is a cooler red with a hint of fuchsia pink. Pigmented but sheerest of all three shades, needs a couple of swipes to apply fully opaque. Personally I love this shade and find it more wearable when it's not KAPOW! in-your-face intensively pigmented. I see this shade working beautifully on variety of skin tones.

EX-03 AWA MOMOKA

Beautiful medium nude shade with a hint of peach. Not too brown or concealer-like on my skin. I had my doubts about this shade as I never wear nudes, but Awamomoka ended up being my favorite of the three. It's nicely opaque and applies beautifully with a back and forth swipe.

FORMULA

The name SUQQU Creamy Glow Lipstick Moist describes the lipsticks quite accurately. They're quite creamy and glide effortlessly on the lips, almost like a lip balm. The finish has a slight sheen, which makes my lips look nicely plump without emphasis on the lines. They are not fully opaque with one swipe but can be layered to full coverage while still feeling light on the lips.

The lipstick doesn't fully set but stays slippery, which I have to say I'm not a huge fan of. I usually apply lipstick in a rush and prefer "safe" formulas I don't need to worry sliding or moving during the day. I like the round lipstick bullet, but it works better for less intense lipsticks like the SUQQU Extra Glow. For me, it's difficult to get an accurate application without using a lip brush, which I'd say is a must have for this formulation. I'd also recommend a liner for the red shade EX-01. Being so slippery the Creamy Glow Lipstick Moist isn't a long lasting formula and does transfer if you eat/drink/kiss. 

Overall thoughts

I'd say the formula is especially great for very dry or mature lips, but not very effortless in application or exceeding in longevity. When I was photographing the lip swatches I told myself to not mess up the lip line, but you saw that my best effort wasn't the neatest. So, I highly recommend using a lip brush for EX-01 and EX-02. Although I'm not a crazy fan of the slippy formula I do think the colors are beautiful, complementing and unique. If there's a shade you liked I encourage you to pick it up before it's gone!

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This post contains product(s) that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

I.e. starter's guide to one of my favorite brands I keep getting "what should I get" type of questions, so I thought it'd be helpful if I wrote a dedicated blog post. You could ask yourself a question: what do I need? Rouge Bunny Rouge has got you covered. So far I have never been disappointed or even encountered a "mehh" product. To me, that's quite impressive. RBR seems to have a really high standards for their product launches and won't come out with limited edition every single season. Here are some of my top picks and product recommendations if you fancy to try out RBR - with a discount code at the end of the post.

Raw Garden Antigo Palette

You may know how hyped up RBR matte shadows are, but in my opinion, Antigo is even better. I'd dare to call it one of the best neutral eye quads on the market. Silky soft formula and good, buildable pigmentation. The unique matte-satin finish will be a gorgeous addition to any make up lover's collection. Read more in my review here. 

Impalpable Finishing Powder in Diaphanous 

A must have. If you want a silky, fairy dust -like finishing powder or set your under eye concealer with no fear of caking, then Diaphanous is your powder. Translucent, great packaging, diminishes the appearance of pores. I've dedicated a whole post to this powder and my beloved Chikuhodo Z-2 brush, click here for full review and pictures.

Original Skin Blush - For love of Roses

One of my very favorite blush formulas, I can't rave about these enough. Pigmented, extra finely milled and almost buttery soft powders to touch. These blushes blend effortlessly and leave a natural glow on the cheeks without chunky glitter. Carefully picked shades for "my cheeks but better" make up looks. See all blushes swatched and reviewed in my earlier post.

Sheer Lipstick - SUCCULENCE OF DEW

The name 'sheer' is a little misleading, as these lipsticks do pack a punch. They can be applied sheerly for a transparent of color, but layered for more intense pigment. The lipsticks are very moisturizing and leave your lips looking juicy, while feeling featherlight on the lips.

Milk Aquarelle Foundation

If you love healthy, dewy finish then this is a foundation for you. The gel-like texture feels nourishing on the skin, without being heavy. Light-medium coverage hides any imperfection giving the skin a beautiful natural look. Especially good for dry skin types, but the shade range is very limited. Read my full review here.

Use RBR-LAURALOUKOLA20 discount code to get 20% off your order (for a limited time)! Again, I'm not affiliated, sponsored and gain no commission for promoting this code or products. The links are for your convenience.

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Sometimes I wonder if I'm qualified enough to write about fude (=brush). I don't have that large of a collection (in my opinion..) and struggle to do as many comparison photos as I want, but then again, the purpose of this blog is sharing the fun and passion for make up, skincare and fude from my perspective. Maybe some of you are totally new to this amazing brand, which in my opinion deserves a lot more love and recognition.

Kyureido

Kyureido (九嶺堂) is a brush manufacturer in Kumano, near Hiroshima in Japan. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to visit their shop during my last Japan visit, so I ordered a couple of brushes to a friend's place. Their premium Kiwami series, otherwise known as 'Fine Kalla' among fude fans, has altogether 10 brushes, of which four are grey squirrel. I have three of them to show you: the blush brush, large and small eyeshadow brushes. I made the unwise decision to not order the face brush, as now my fude heart is breaking I'm missing one brush from this post (and my life). 

I know this post is about the brushes, but isn't this the most gorgeous brush roll you've ever seen? Hand made of real kimono fabric and lined with waxy fabric to repel any dirt, this brush roll was a very generous gift from Sarah aka 212kiki (she might made these to order!) If you like, I can share more about my brush rolls in the future.

Ordering from Kyureido website was easy and the delivery was done in a couple of days, packed in a beautiful black box with orange lining. I had my brushes engraved with my name in katakana, which is a personal and luxurious touch to the brushes. The ferules and handles are black with gorgeous silver flecks in the handles, Kyureido logo and 'Fine Kalla' written in gold.

Blush brush KK-002

Total length: 155mm, hair length: 35mm, price ¥7,560

Kyureido Fine Kalla blush brush is a true beauty. Although pom pom style circle cheek brushes are my favorite, nothing beats KK-002 when it comes to working with the most pigmented blushes. Ultra soft and relatively small brush is perfect for depositing color precisely on the cheeks. The hairs grab and optimal amount of pigment for a sheer to medium/buildable coverage. The hairs spread out out evenly while pressing onto skin and there's enough density and resistance so the brush won't feel floppy while blending. 

 It's great for sheer to buildable/medium coverage. Ultra soft an, efficient, and I adorable the handle with subtle gold flecks. 

Above I have Wayne Goss' Air Brush as a size comparison, but it's a totally different brush: much more pointy and tapered from its wide/flat side. As the tip of the WG brush is less dense than Kyureido, they both feel featherlight and similar softness. In the photo above you can see my name customisation in the Kyureido handle.

Kyureido KK-002 vs SUQQU Cheek

Now to the burning question that might interest many of you: are they dupes? It's common knowledge that Chikuhodo does SUQQU brushes OEM, but when it comes to the face brushes, there's been many speculations online if Kyureido manufactured them. I don't feel like sharing what might be a trade secret, so these are my personal opinions based on the brushes. 

The wide side of SUQQU is slightly more tapered than Kyureido, otherwise I would dare say these are the same brushes by the same company. The hair, ferule and handle length are the same, except for logo design and Kyureido's gold flecks. In many reviews the SUQQU cheek is said to be softer than the Kyureido, but I'll disagree. When I first got my Kyureido I was certain it was softer than the SUQQU. I blind tested the brushes on my other half and he said the same. Now when I'm stroking myself repeatedly with both brushes it gets harder and harder to pick one over the other. I doubt many could tell any difference. Please keep in mind I'd need ten of each brush to do a perfect comparison and the softness may differ from each batch. 

Could be the Kyureido is a bit fluffier than the SUQQU. Otherwise I don't feel much density differences. They're both sublime brushes made with care, craftsmanship and precision. You'd be happy with either one. Do you love the luxury of owning a SUQQU brush or are you drawn by the beautiful handle with metallic flecks of the less expensive Kyureido?

Eyeshadow brush (large) KK-003

Total length: 140mm, hair length: 20mm, price ¥5,400

All three of these Kyureido beauties are unique in their own league, and KK-003 is among my favorite eyeshadow brushes. I find myself reaching for it all the time, especially working with soft and pigmented eyeshadows. I actually use it mainly for blending, although judging by the shape it'd be well suited for patting the color evenly on the lid. For that purpose, I prefer a bit denser brush. KK-003 is not one bit floppy, but it has a great flexibility for blending purposes: either in round swipes or windshield wiper motion. The tip and the slimmer side of the brush are great for the crease, the wider side for larger areas. Believe me, for my hooded eyes blending with this brush is like a gentle massage therapy for the eyes.

Out of my big flat eyeshadow brushes, KK-003 is definitely my favorite. Not only it's the softest, but unlike "straight haired" Chikuhodos and Houkudou, Kyureido has a slimmer ferule and the hairs fan out. I use Chikus and Houkudou for densely patting a base color all over the lid color on the lid, and leave the more the pigmented shadows and blending for KK-003.

Eyeshadow brush (small) KK-004

Total length: 133mm, hair length: 13mm, price ¥4,860

And finally, the pencil brush. KK-004 is on the larger side of pencil brushes, pointy and dense yet maintaining its ultra softness. For me, it works the best for applying a shadow in the outer corner of my eye and blending into the crease. It's great if you need just a touch of contrast to deepen out your look, but don't want to go dabbing a dark shadow with a bigger brush.

You can see how pointy the Kyureido is compared to Chikuhodo R-S4 for instance, but also a lot larger. For me, the KK-004 doesn't really work for smudging the shadow on the lower lash line or inner corner. Although the tips of the brush is very precise, I prefer something smaller with more control, like C011 or R-S4. Similar shape, different purpose. One day I hope they would come out with a mini version of KK-004.

Final words

Although my collection is still small and humble, Kyureido has become one of my most favorite brush manufacturers. I can't wait to get my hands on more of their brushes. I sincerely hope you've enjoyed this post, let me know if you have any questions and I try my best to answer them!

Have you tried any Kyureido brushes or are you intrigued to?

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I love cleansing balms and oils. For me, nothing else removes make up more gently and efficiently without leaving my dry skin feeling tight. Banila co. used to be my first cleansing balm I bought during my Korea trip a couple of years ago, and I've kept repurchasing its variations ever since. Heimish All Clean balm caught my attention after I heard one of my favorite beauty Youtuber rave about it, and after that the product kept popping in other videos I watched. I'll be putting both to the test and also compare the ingredients for you!

Using a cleansing balm

If you're unfamiliar with cleansing balms then believe me, you're missing out! Especially if you wear make up or sunscreen (as you should, like I explain in my sun care post) - double cleansing is a must. A cleansing balm is a great way to cleanse efficiently yet gently as your "1st cleanse". The balm has a solid or sherbet like texture, which turns into an oil thanks to the warmth of your hands as you massage it into your dry face. Adding little water to your hands, the oil usually emulsifies into a cleansing milk which you can easily rinse off. The other way is to use a warm wash cloth for wiping off the cleanser and get a bit of a manual exfoliation at the same time.

Banila co. Clean it Zero

Banila co.'s Clean it Zero is a cult classic with a few variations for different skin types. I've tried both the sensitive and the regular one, without seeing much difference in them. It's popularity is based on its performance: this cleansing balm will melt of your make up like nothing else. Banila co.'s Clean it zero retails 18,000 won (~14.35€ but usually more expensive online) for 100ml.

The tub comes with a spatula and a separate clear lid for holding the spatula in place. The spatula is quite ergonomic, but I didn't like the flimsy, hard to grab lid I had to remove every time before digging into Clean it Zero's sherbet-like texture. The balm smells soapy, which I'm not quite a fan off, but fortunately the fragrance is the last ingredient and doesn't smell overpowering.

Clean it Zero Ingredients

Mineral Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG -10Isostearate, Polyethylene, Butylene Glycol, Water, Rubus Suavissimus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Viscum Album, (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Carica Papaya, (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Epilobium, Angustifolium Leaf Extract, BHT, Butylparaben, CI 16255, CI 15985, Fragrance

The bulk of Banila co. Clean it Zero is mineral oil. To my knowledge, mineral oil used in cosmetics is researched to be completely safe, cheap and efficient. Shu Uemura's high end cleansing oils are mostly mineral oil. Claims "mineral oil free" or actually "xxx free" is just mostly just marketing gibberish to me, trying to make consumers more gullible the product doesn't contain any nasties. Molecular size of mineral oil is too big to get into our pores and clog them. However, not every ingredient works for everyone. If you know your skin can't handle mineral oil - you do yo and that's OK.

Heimish All Clean Balm

Now let's talk Heimish, a relatively new addition to the ever growing Korean beauty market. At this moment they carry only 2 cleansers and some make up items, and I'm excited to see how this brand grows. First of all, isn't the packaging gorgeous? I usually prefer to judge the packaging by its performance and not by a pretty design, but the clean typography and graphic patterns with rose gold accents is something I love seeing when I open my bathroom cabinet. Heimish All Clean Balm retails 18,000 won (~14,35€) for 120ml, which is slightly cheaper than Banila co.

There's also a separate lid for the spatula, and while Banila co. takes the spatula points, I find is this lid much sturdier and easier to take off and place back. The consistency of Heimish All Clean Balm is a harder balm with a little bit of oily liquid separated on the top, while Banila co.'s was a "fluffier" sherbet. All Clean Balm also melts effortlessly into an oil when I gently massage my face and emulsifies with water to rinse off all my make up, dirt and sunscreen. My face doesn't feel stripped, irritated and there's no redness.

ALL Clean Balm Ingredients

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Polyethylene, PEG-8 Isostearate, Shea Butter, Donkey Milk, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract, Freesia Refracta (Freesia) Extract, Iris Versicolor (Blueflag Iris) Extract, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract, Lilium Tigrinum (Asian Lily) Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum (Edelweiss) Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum (Lotus Flower) Extract, Narcissus Flower Extract, Rose Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Lavender Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Extract, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Tea Tree Leaf Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Frankincense (Boswellia Carterii) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, 1,2-Hexanediol

On first glance, Heimish's long INCI list looks frightening, but can you see what's right after emollients and emulsifiers? Shea butter and currently so popular donkey milk, known for its skin conditioning properties. Although I do use some non-vegan skincare and make up, I wonder if knowing the balm includes donkey milk had put me off from purchasing. Then, there's coconut fruit, lime extracts and a long list of floral and plant extracts, finishing with essential oils and a moisturiser. Some of the plant and floral extracts have anti-inflammatory properties or serve as antioxidants, the others might be just for fragrance purposes. But unlike Banila co, there's no plain fragrance listed.

In general, I'm not a fan of any kind of fragrances in my skincare: I'm here to take care of my face, not to please my nose! For enjoying scents I have this magical bottle called perfume. That being said, I don't mind if the ingredients smell pleasant naturally. Heimish has this botanical, almost medical scent to it when you open the jar, and I find it very very pleasant. I dream I'm in a Korean medicinal hanbang spa every time I clean my face. I find it especially intriguing if the ingredients also serve a skin beneficial purposes and aren't there to just smell nice.

Overall

I hope these two reviews gave you some insight about these two cleansing balms. I'm sure you'd be happy with either as they're both highly performing and inexpensive (depends on where you buy them, I've shopped mostly on ebay). I'm not shy to say I prefer the plant oil packed and cheaper Heimish over Banila co, and will be repurchasing All Clean Balm in the future. The heavenly medicinal scent might be a turn on or off to some of you, but to me it's a plus - not an essential. I have a feeling the Heimish All Clean Balm could be a future cult classic.

Have you tried cleansing balms? Do you have a favorite brand?

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First time I tested SUQQU's complexion products was in a makeover I had in Osaka, after trying their famous gankin massage. The foundation and loose powder were very promising, but in the end I ended up purchasing only color make up. When SUQQU UK generously sent me some of their Fall 2016 items to try, I almost squalled from excitement when I saw there was a new foundation - who doesn't love a good foundation? I've put it to a proper test well over a month, and today I'd like to share my thoughts on it!

Idea behind the foundation

When I test products I try to keep an open mind and see how things work on me, not how their live up to the often exaggerated marketing claims. SUQQU describes this foundation beautifully like a perfume: with top, heart and base notes how the foundation and its level of dew evolves throughout the day. The used technologies are made of Phenyl Trimethicone, a silicone-based polymer and pearly mica pigments to keep the skin radiant and dewy, confining dullness yet sustaining dimension on the face. I'm more happy to say the Extra Rich Cream Foundation lives up to its claims. The foundation is 30g and retails for £65.00/¥10,800 (with tax).

Packaging

The SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation comes in an elegant black cardboard box, on a little stand. The jar is heavy frosted glass with a golden metallic lid and Extra Cream Foundation printed on the side in golden letters. Inside there's a double lid to keep out the product from smearing around. It keeps the product in the jar, but often there's some foundation on the edges, which can result in messy fingers. 

I say it right now I'm not a fan of jar packaging at all. Not in make up, not in skincare. I find them unhygienic and there's a higher risk of contamination or the product going bad when exposed to air. Edit: The Extra Rich Cream Foundation does comes with a small black spatula, which is hidden in the bottom of the cardboard box. Thanks to Ann pointing this out! I've used my own as no earthly power gets me to stick my finger in a foundation jar.

FInish and wear

Like the name suggests, the foundation texture is creamy, but doesn't feel heavy on the skin - only moisturising, almost like a serum. I've been on Accutane and my skin is dry like a desert with textural issues, as I'm afraid to use exfoliators while on heavy duty acne medication. The foundation smoothly glides over everything, even on my bad skin days it won't cling on my dry patches or emphasise my pores or textural issues. If I'm suffering from redness I can build up the foundation and my skin looks evened out without leaving a heavy or cakey finish. 

I use the spatula to tap a few foundations dots on my face and then blend and buff with a natural goat hair brush. I won't say it's completely undetectable on the skin like some very sheer and liquid foundations are, but the look is very natural with a healthy amount of glow. The foundation stays looking "healthy dewy" during the day without turning into an oil slick -look or separating after +8-10 hours of wear. 

And whoa, how beautifully it does wear while lasting so long! I could build up the coverage to cover my acne scaring, but I prefer to pinpoint conceal. Do you know how some dewy foundations start separating towards evening OR your skin "eats up" the foundation? Well, neither of these have happened to me with SUQQU. I have a habit to lean on my jaw sometimes and that's where my foundation usually disappears, but SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation stays strong. It evens out my skin beautifully and my acne scaring and redness is less prominent, although not completely masked. 

Shade range

There are a total of 7 shades available, but I'd say they're all on the light-medium side, as SUQQU is a brand catered mainly towards Japanese audience. The undertones of the shades are ochre (10X series), pink ochre (20X series) and beige ochre (00X series) with 2-3 variations of lightness. Here is a map of the color system, which is quite easy to navigate even if you don't read Japanese. If you can, go test your shade in-store and request a sample. On me this foundation doesn't oxidise during the day, but I've noticed if I pick up some old product from the cap the foundation is slightly darker. In the end, not changing color on my skin during the day is what matters.

comparison swatches

The sample shade I received was 102 Natural Ochre, which is my perfect summer tan shade for light warm/neutral skin tone. I'd say it's around MAC NC20? In Winter I definitely need to opt for a lighter shade, as you can see from my usual matches. I never purchase a different shade of foundation for different seasons, I just try to stay out of the sunshine and 'make it work', but this time I think I'll might make an exception and buy 101. That's how much I love this foundation.

Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Titanium Dioxide, Mineral Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Talc, Dipropylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Maltitol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Sorbitan Isostearate, Petrolatum, Tribehenin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrated Silica, Dimethicone, Mica, Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Trifluoropropyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Butylene Glycol, Methicone, Alcohol, Tin Oxide, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, BHT, Hydrolyzed Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Lactobacillus/Soymilk Ferment Filtrate, Prunus Yedoensis Leaf Extract, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Citrus Junos Peel Extract, Tocopherol, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Alpinia Speciosa Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, May Contain(+/-) : Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Zinc Oxide (CI 77947)

Notable 12 natural extracts the foundation features: Cork Tree Bark Extract, Olive Leaf Extract, Cherry Tree Leaf Extract, Coix Seed Extract, Camellia Seed Extract, Angelica Extract, Phyto Hyaluronic Acid, Yuzu Extract, Apple Extract, Japanese Kelp Extract, Shell Ginger Leaf Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract. If you're sensitive to mineral oil or talc (which I don't have a problem with at all), you might want to patch test the foundation first. The foundation has SPF 30 PA++, which shouldn't be your only sunscreen but gives a decent amount of extra protection. Thanks to Bellyhead for sharing the ingredient list! 

Overall

My final verdict is this foundation is something phenomenal. I've never tried anything so moisturising with a natural, healthy glow finish that would last this long during the day without oxidising, separating or fading. I believe SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation works great on dry to normal skin types, but from my personal experience the lasting power is so good I would give it a try even if you're combination. A bit early to say, but I think I've found my Holy Grail foundation (or at least top 3).

SUQQU EXtra Rich Cream Foundation has already been released in Japan, launching in UK 22nd of September (testers/samples already available).

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This post contains products that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

I know what some of you are thinking - who cares to wear make up while working out? Isn't that just vain, Laura? Yes and no: I couldn't care less about my face when my whole attire is sweaty, but personally looking and feeling fresh faced brings me comfort - and comfort is good. Let me explain and share my routine and a couple of point how to not feel yucky while wearing make up to your exercise of choice.

So, do you need to wear make up?

No. When I worked out at my local gym I couldn't care less what I looked like: I slapped on some sunscreen and I was out of the door. Nobody is judging your complexion on a treadmill or while doing deadlifts and you shouldn't care either. 

But - if you want to, why not? If wearing full glam with falsies on a treadmill is your thing, you do you. My newest climbing hobby is somewhat social and I often exercise with a partner. I don't feel I have to wear a ton of make up to look presentable, but often I want to be fresh faced instead of looking like a raccoon. Also, I love make up and I'll take any chances to play with it. I shower and wash my face every time I've exercised and sometimes I need to redo my make up for afternoon events or meeting friends, but I don't mind applying it all again.

Less is more

Quite an obvious tip in this case, but worth of revisiting. The more you layer up the weirder it looks once the make up smears, moves or fades. According to my philosophy, the recipe to looking good has two ingredients: skin and brows. I could remove everything but my concealer and brow product and still look like a decent, well-rested human being. The rest is just an icing on the top. Blusher is also a great way to add "life" to the face, but I find working out already gives you a nice flush to the cheeks.

Oil/waterproof is a friend

Personally I don't wear waterproof mascaras, but I look for formulations that won't flake or smear while moving or if I have slightly runny eyes. Tubing mascaras or fibber mascaras tend to stay nicely in put as you need hot water to take them off. Usually regular mascaras smear due to oily eyelids, so go for the waterproof formula or set your lids with a powder if your skin tends to get oily. 

If you're a swimmer, sweat a lot or have blonde hairs you might want to look into brow and lash tints. An alternative to lash extensions and waterproof mascaras is to get an eyelash perm or lift. Even curling your lashes with an eyeshadow curler and wiggling the mascara into the roots of the lashes makes a big difference in how awake you appear. I always lightly heat my eyelash curlers to get a long-lasting curl without applying too much force.

My workout make up routine

I dab some ADDICTION Tinted Moisturizer in no. 01 on my face with my finger and blend with a foundation brush. I'm just comfortable with brushes, but you could recreate the whole look without any. Then I conceal my dark circles with NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla, which has a lightly pink undertone and helps to cancel out the purple hues of my under eyes. I can wear this with little to no creasing, but to play it safe I can add a little powder if I have the time (read: effort). Also for extra coverage and longevity I apply a sheer layer, set with a translucent powder and reapply the concealer with a brush or my ring finger. Thin layers work better than one thick one.

Rouge Bunny Rouge Alchemy Long Lasting Brow Liner is like the name suggests - long lasting. I prefer this pen to powders during exercise as it won't budge or smear. Both available shades work with my medium brown hair, but I prefer lighter Trona for a softer look. My unruly brow hairs I comb upwards and horizontal with RBR Silhouette of Grace Brow Expert in Earthshine, which is a medium brown. It keeps the brows naturally in place without turning them "crusty". Proper reviews coming soon!

And you're done. If I feel like it, I swipe my go-to RBR duo cream shadow in Gossamer Wing (featured in my One Shadow Wonders post) on the lid with my fingers. Despite the fact I have hooded lids, this cream shadow won't crease on me and leaves a beautiful satin sheen. Add mascara and lip balm of choice. I keep this Clarins one in my bag because it's in a hygienic, convenient tube and has a nice sheen, but I won't be repurchasing as it's not very hydrating on the lips.

Do you wear make up while working out?

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Rouge Bunny Rouge brow products and duo eyeshadow generously gifted by the brand for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. 

While matte liquid lipsticks have been all the craze in 2016, I personally found myself gravitating towards glosses. I ended up purchasing one and at the end of the year I'm sitting with a totally new collection of make up. I must say I was never a big gloss person, not since my middle school days, as my idea of a lip gloss was a gloopy layer of glitter on the lips your hair sticks to. How wrong was I! Time to show you my roundup of favorite lip glosses I've encountered so far.

THREE Shimmering Lip Jam

These glosses are a top seller in Japan and for a good reason. They feel light weight on the lips, giving a healthy sheen and a decent payoff of color. I picked up the awarded shade 08 Red Shoe Twist and later found myself lusting after more colors. I have whole review and swatches of my mini collection here. My most reached shade has been 16 Dreams Awaken, which is a cool pink-mauve shade that looks beautiful paired with any look. ¥3,000/7g

Lancôme Juicy Shaker

Lisa Eldridge's cushion lip oils became an instant hit when they launched. Hype makes me sometimes hesitant to purchase an interesting product, but eventually I decided to pick one up during a sale. Inspired by a 1940s "cocktail shaker" lipstick from her vintage make up collection, the modern creation is super cute and fun to use. You shake together the pigment and oil, and dab on the lips with a Korean inspired cushion applicator. Not a traditional lip gloss, but gives a beautiful tint and sheen while conditioning the lips. Comes out in variety of 'flavours', my pick was Wonder Melon which is a very pretty coral pink with a melon resembling scent. 22€/5,3ml

RMK Lip Jelly Gloss

If THREE has a jam-like formula, RMK's is certainly like a glassy jelly. The texture is thicker, runnier and stickier, which gives you that ultra glossy look on the lips. The spoon like plastic spatula distributes an even coating of gloss for that plumped, juicy look. RMK Lip Jelly Gloss still feels comfortable to wear and your lips won't annoyingly stick together. They were a huge hit back in Spring when I was in Japan: almost all shades sold out at every counter, especially 03 the baby blue/transparent shade, which is praised by make up artists and social media. My pick was 06, which is a fuchsia pink. 19.9€/5.5g

Rouge Bunny Rouge Glassy Gloss

RBR Glassy Gloss Sweet Excess is the milkiest of all four glosses, with a minimal stick for improved longevity. The effect on the lips is a beautiful sheen and plumped, as if your lips were naturally glossy and hydrated. Instead of a strong gleamy texture this gloss has a very fine microshimmer. I fell in love with greyish mauve Mousse Fandango and I'm dying to pick more colors. I love the frosted oval packaging and how a perfect amount of product gets into the doe foot applicator. There is a slight sweet dessert scent when you open the cap, which is delightful and fortunately won't linger around. 28€/10ml

Have you tried any of these glosses? What's your favorite gloss of all time?

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Verso is a Swedish skincare brand that has been popping up on Instagram and some skincare blogs, but I've seen fairly little reviews online. Intrigued by the star ingredient retin-A and the gorgeous packaging I purchased the eye cream. Later I generously received a couple of serums for review from the Finnish importer. The name 'Verso' confused me at first, because in Finnish 'verso' means a sprout, but later I learned the brand's name comes from Latin and means renewing. A good double meaning I say, too bad the brand isn't from my home country (haha). Let's take a better look at Verso's Super Facial Serum!

Verso super facial serum

This serum claims to be both healing and strengthening, aiding the skin's natural production of collagen and anti-ageing. Regular use should result in brighter look, improved texture and visible reduction of pigmentation spots and wrinkles. I decided to test the Dark Spot Serum later separately to see if the 4 Super Facial Serum alone would help with my skin concerns. Verso Super Facial Serum 30ml retails which retails £95 (Cult Beauty) or 119€ (Skin.fi, Yliopiston apteekki, available in various salons in Finland).

My skin concerns

As I'm writing this review I've put the serum to the test good 1,5-2 months. In a a couple of years I'll be 30 and I'd prefer if my fine lines wouldn't appear any faster. As anti-ageing is hard to measure, I was curious to see if there was any effect on my PIH or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation aka "acne scars". You know, those red-purple spots you are left with after you've had a pimple. On my fair skin the acne scaring/PIH tends to be very prominent, depressing and takes months and months to heal. I could draw a face chart of myself and pinpoint where I have acne scaring, I've had to stare them for so long I know them by heart. 

Packaging

The Verso branding is a graphic designer's dream. Simple, clean typography and press images easily available on the website (I decided to shoot my own though). I love the typeface and clear hierarchy in the logo and product name, the numbers in the packaging imply the order of application. The graphic design gives a luxurious look to the uniform plain white pump bottles. However, I feel the pump is a bit 'cheap' - in the beginning you may have to press it multiple times to get any product out and deal with the growing panic have you gotten a dud. It doesn't feel very reliable to me, but after the pump is working, it does distribute the perfect amount of product for the whole face, which I enjoy quite a bit. Opaque packaging also keeps the ingredients from oxidising, which is great.

Ingredients

Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Palmitic Acid, Glycerin, C12-16 Alcohols, Squalane, Palmitoyl Glycine, Canola Oil, Palmitoyl Proline, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Retinyl Retinoate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide NP, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Tetrahydropiperine, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10 – 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Parfum

I'm writing a comprehensive post dedicated to retinols and its benefits if you're completely new to the ingredient. Retinol/retin-A/tretinoin aka Vitamin A is scientifically proven to be an anti-ageing ingredient and found beneficial in treating multiple skin concerns including wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin firmness and collagen synthesis. They're available in various strengths both with prescription and over-the-counter. The con is retinols are often drying, irritating and proper sun protection needs to be applied.

Verso's "Retinol 8" means their ingredient 8 times more potent than traditional retinol. I wish they'd announce the % in the packaging for the curious of us and not just "high concentration". Retinyl retionate, which Verso uses, is a photostable derivate of Vitamin A acid, which has a higher skin regeneration activity than retinol (source). Retinyl retionate has also been found causing less irritation than other retinoids (source) as induces more effective hyaluronan production, which causes less transepidermal water loss compared to retinol. These are all wonderful news to those of us who can't stand using retinol products without flakey skin. According to Verso the serum can be applied both morning or/and evening, but personally I've only tested it in my evening routine.

Experiences

I've used some retinol serums and behind the counter retin-A gel in the past, but I've always got a very dry, flakey skin after using them. Basic retinol serums have so low concentrations I haven't seen much results with them, but my skin won't tolerate 1% on daily basis. I've applied Verso facial serum every single night after my Vitamin C serum or current acid exfoliant with ~15 min wait time before and after to let the products sink in properly. No stinging, flaking or dry patches. Sometimes after application I do get a warm flush but no feeling of irritation. The eye cream, which I'm going to talk about separately, always makes the application area to feel hot.

I didn't notice any difference to my texture issues while using Verso, but after my Accutane medication I've had zero break outs, which is hard for me to comprehend. When it comes to scaring, it takes the skin time to heal itself even if you get aid from products. I feel my scaring has gradually faded. I don't have the desperate need to pinpoint concealer some red spots that previously were visible from miles and miles away. I haven't noticed a visible difference in my fine lines, but they haven't worsen either. Longer term use will show, but I believe in regular use of retinol products.

Overall

I think Verso Super Facial serum is an excellent retinol product, strong yet gentle. For the most sensitive of us, the retinyl retionate/Retinol 8 might be on the stronger side, but it's a product worth of testing out as the proven results of regular retinol use are fantastic. Verso is a very premium line, but I believe I'll purchase the serum once I've ran out. I'm very happy to find a non-drying and stable retinol product I enjoy!

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This post contains product(s) that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.

It's Winter here in the Northern Hemisphere and most of us struggle with the same problem every year: dry, chapped lips. I've skipped the whole matte liquid lipstick trend as my lips dry out even at a glance of them. Instead, I've been gravitating towards lip glosses (featuring my favorite formulas here) and creamy lipsticks (like SUQQU Creamy Glow Lipstick moist). Rouge Bunny Rouge's newish lip treatments, the Tinted Luxe Balm DAZZLING SIP, are welcome addition to the line. I got two out of 3 colors sent to me and purchased the last one myself. Let's take a look!

Rouge Bunny Rouge Tinted Luxe Balm DAZZLING SIP

This product seems to me like a hybrid between a lip balm and a sheer lipstick. They're designed to bring volume and intense moisture back to the lips with anti-aging properties and a sheer wash of glossy color. The tubes are same as RBR signature lipstick packaging: black, sleek and reliable. The firmness and pointy shape of the balm also remain of their lipsticks. There are a total of 3 shades available and the balms retail 29€ for 3.5g/0.12oz.

Protection to the lips

Often with lip balms I feel they just coat the lips without getting into the fine cracks and lines of my lips. The comfort and protection remain as long as there is a 'coating' of a balm, and if you've ever been addicted to Vaseline or a lip balm you'll know what I mean. With RBR Tinted Luxe Balms I feel the balm 'sinks in' and gives an instant hydration to the lips. The texture is lightweight, non-sticky, more like a lightly creamy lipstick instead of a balmy salve. 

Ingredients

POLYBUTENE, HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, OCTYLDODECANOL, OLEIC/LINOLEIC/LINOLENIC POLYGLYCERIDES, CANDELILLA CERA (EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX), POLYETHYLENE, CERA MICROCRISTALLINA (MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX), MICA, AROMA (FLAVOR), HYDROXYMETHOXYPHENYL PROPYLMETHYLMETHOXYBENZOFURAN, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, BENZYL ALCOHOL, LINALOOL, TOCOPHEROL, [+/-] CI 77492 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 15850 (RED 7 LAKE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 42090 (BLUE 1 LAKE) 

The bulk of the ingredients are viscosity controllers and various emollients, lastly some flavor and pigments. As RBR has high claims of the anti-aging properties of the product, I was expecting more plant extracts or natural oils in the list. The 5th ingredient (oleic polyglycerides) is sunflower oil, which moisturises intensively. Candelilla id a plant based wax for holding in moisture, improve skin texture and protection. The fragrance is very non-invasive, there is a light scent of dessert when you open the tube which won't linger around.

SWATCHES

Pinch of Nude, Sip of Pink and Specks of Cerise

Pinch of Nude

A luminous, transparent nude with specks of golden shimmer. The shimmer particles are like fine glitters, but fortunately barely visible on the lips. I often wear this shade as my lip treatment when starting on my make up routine to plump and hydrate my lips for any lipstick I decide to apply later.

Sip of Pink

A juicy light pink with a hint of peach undertones. The look is very soft and cute, a perfect shade to be used instead of a lipstick for a casual look or layered under a lip gloss. The easiest go-to shade to throw in a handbag! 

Specks of Cerise

Transparent, juicy cherry shade with cool purple undertones - like having eaten cherry clafoutis. If you love the RBR Sheer Lipstick in Murmurings, which is a bit more opaque cherry shade, I'm sure you'll love Specks of Cherise and the other way around.

Overall

If you're looking for a luxurious lip treatment for yourself or as a gift, these are a beautiful choice. If you prefer a bit more pigment yet almost equally moisturising lip product, I'd recommend the RBR Sheer Lipsticks over the Tinted Luxe Balms as they're priced the same. I've taken the anti-aging promises of Tinted Luxe Balms with a grain of salt as the ingredients list wasn't ground breaking. Saying that, I would prefer Rouge Bunny Rouge over Chanel, By Terry or other ridiculously expensive pot balms any time. The ease of use, instant moisturisation and long-lasting hydration are just what my lips need this season.

What's your favorite lip treatment? Edit: Get 20% off your Rouge Bunny Rouge purchase use the code  RBR-LAURALOUKOLA20 (non-affiliated) for your shopping basket! It should be valid until the end of the year.

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This post contains product(s) that were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.